ALTERATIONS 

and How to Make Them 

As Compiled for the 

NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF 
RETAIL CLOTHIERS 




by a Committee Composed of 

H. J. Roschi G. M. Gray 

Frank Musgrave D. P. Sullivan 

Louis M. Rouda 

and Appointed by the 

INTERNATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF 
CLOTHING DESIGNERS 



©C!J 192898 

APR -3 1918 









TABLE OF CONTENTS 

Page Shoulders — 

Alterations— Extreme I I igh 6 

Causes and Effects 1 and 2 High 6 

Left High— Right Low 7 

Back — One Low 6 

To Lengthen 5 Sl< iping 6 

To Shorten 5 Square 6 

Wide— Small Chest 5 



Trousers — 

Crease Swinging to Inside of Lee - 11 



Coat- 
Alterations at Back Arm 8 

Circular Creases Below Front of Scye 8 Crease Swinging to ( hitside of Leg 11 

Circular Creases in Front of Scye 8 Cutting in Seat 10 

Collar Riding Up 9 Forms and Attitudes 10 

Collar Standing Away at Back 9 To Reduce Waist 11 

Fullness in Forepart at Bottom of Scye 8 

Lengthen Collar 9 

Longer Back on One Side, Low Shoulder on 



Twisted Legs 11 



( >thei 



Vest— 



Needing More Spring 7 Standing Away at Side ( if Neck 10 

Raise or Lower Collar 9 Standinq- Away from Back of Neck 10 



Tight at Top Button 8 

Too Much Breast 8 



Tight at Bottom Buttons — Loose at Waist in 

Back 10 

Human Form — Toe Large in Front from Waist Down 9 

Attitudes of 3 and 4 Too Louse in Front of Scye 9 



Alterations 



THE importance of the alteration department 
in the retail clothing store can scarcely be 
overestimated. And the future sales of 
thousands of dollars of clothing hinges yearly upon 
the good work or inefficiency of this department. 



The object of the treatise on the subject of altera- 
tions is not to enable one to make as many altera- 
tions on a garment, but as few as possible. 

If the defect is properly diagnosed in the begin- 
ning it will help to achieve the above result. If not. 



Suppose a customer comes into your store and a never-ending series of "corrections" will arise, and 
purchases a suit. It does not quite fit and an altera- the results will end in disaster. 
ti< in is necessary. Perhaps two changes are to be Take heed that, if the garment is good, leave 



made and these alterations are 
made in a careful and scientific 
manner and the suit fits well. 

He becomes a satisfied cus- 
tomer and no doubt a perma- 
nent one. And yet how easy 
it is to reverse the proceedings 
and not fit him accurately. 
The necessary result to be ob- 
tained is the absolute satisfac- 
tion of every customer and yet 
this should be done with the 
smallest amount of alteration. 



The question of alteration is 
a scientific one and requires 
expert knowledge and careful 
thought. Knowing this the 
National Association of Cloth- 
ing I lesigners have prepared a 
series of articles on alterations 

for us and these instructive lessons have been featured 
in our columns for the last few months. 

One of the big leaks in many stores could be 
traced to the inefficiency of this department and it 
is to aid in the reduction of this expense that we are 
publishing these articles. They were prepared by 



The Alteration Series 

/\NE of the big features 
^^ of recent months, in 
the trade papers, has been 
this series of articles in the 
Bulletin on the alteration 
of clothing. 

Prepared by the Inter- 
national Association of De- 
signers it is of valuable as- 
sistance to the clothier who 
wishes his alteration de- 
partment to do the best 
possible work at a minimum 
of expense. 



good enough alone ; do not open 
a seam if a stretch or shrink 
with the iron will do the trick 
ami do not forget your friend, 
the iron; it will work wonders 
if intelligently plied. 

Beware of the ''surgeon" 
bushelman, he who opens his 
penknife before looking care- 
fully for the cause of the gar- 
ment's defect. The principles 
i if alterations ma}" roughly be 
classed as follows : 

1. Vertical or upright folds. 

2. Horizontal folds. 

3. Creases. 

4. Fullnesses. 
Vertical or upright folds 

are the results of excessive 
widths. 
Horizontal folds are caused by excessive lengths. 

Creases denote shortness between certain points 
and fullness is caused by contraction or tightness. 
In other words, fullness at any part usually arises 
from tightness elsewhere. 

The sketches on the next page will help to 



the leading clothing designers of the country and make clear these fundamental principles of cause 
are the result of vears of careful study and work. and effect. 



Pagi On, 




The 
Fundamentals of 
the Causes and Ef- 
fects of Alterations 

These simple illustrations will 
suggest remedies for most defects 




Diagram Four 

Will cause fullness at B and tight 

ness between C and D. 



Diagram Five 

Creases caused by shortness between 
two extreme points. 
Diagram Six 

i well to know that a hollow edge. A-l! will show 
fullness on the outer edge. (Diagram A.) 



Long 





Diagram Tint 

Horizontal folds show excessive 

length. 




T)if\.&- 



Diagram Eight 
When taking a seam from a hollow 
edge ii is lengthened, but when 
taking a seam from a round edge it 

is shortened. 



The Attitudes of the Human Form 




Forward Posture 
Long Back from Waist Up 
I I i •■ill from II', i: ' D 



Perhaps the must important feature in connection 
with the proper alteration of garments is a careful 
study of the human form. The application of the 
principles which guide in alterations can only be 
exercised by this study. "When a customer is trying 
on a suit or other garment in your store and there 
are alterations to be made, contrive by all means to 
keep him away from the mirror. 

Xote well his peculiarities of form and see that he 
is standing in a natural position before commencing 
any operatic ins. And it is nearly impossible to have 
anyone stand in their accustomed manner while try- 
ing on a garment before a mirror. Unconsciously 
they will assume an unnatural position. 

It is then impossible to mark the necessary 
changes correctly on the garment. However, after 
he has relaxed to his normal position and away from 
the mirror a careful study can be made and the 
proper changes outlined. In connection with this 
article eight different types are here pictured. These 
attitudes will practically cover the majority of fig- 
ures you will be obliged to conform garments to. 
Thesefdifferent figures have been drawn especially 
for this series of articles so that a stud)- of the atti- 

Page 



tudes and the difference of each from the normal 
will be made separately of each figure. 

No. 1 shows the normal figure. Careful attention 
should be paid to the straight line drawn parallel 
with the figure. The distance from this line to the 
nape of the neck is called the incline measure and 
determines the degree of erectness or slope. It is 
hardly necessary to dwell longer on this figure, as 
tbe only alteration necessary would be the shorten- 
ing of the sleeves and possibly a few other minor 
changes. 

In studying No. 2, which depicts the erect figure, 
the peculiarities are self-evident. There is less in- 
cline from the straight line, which naturally tends to 
make the figure shorter in the back and longer in 
front. This figure then would require a shorter 
back. It will also lie noticed that the seat is more 
prominent and the arms are held farther back, thus 
making a smaller back width and greater width 
across the chest. The calves of the legs are also 
more prominent. 

A stooping attitude is depicted by No. 3, which is 
the reverse of erect. This figure requires a longer 
back, more blade, less across the chest and less seat. 

Xo. 4 shows a forward posture which would neces- 

Threi 







Should,- 



Ilhh Should,- 



One Shoulder Low 



sitate a longer back from the waist up and longer 
front from the waist down. 

A back view of the normal figure is shown in No. 
5. It clearly illustrates the height of normal shoul- 
ders. The sloping shoulder and longer neck as de- 
picted by No. 6, and No. 7 illustrates the high shoul- 
ders and shorter neck. 

The form with one shoulder lower is illustrated 
by No. 8. 

The advantages of being truly competent to con- 
form a garment to one of these forms is immediately 
apparent, since practically every customer entering 
your store will come under one classification or an- 
other. 

And instead of guesswork, substitute efficiency 
in your alterations. Too many of the older genera- 
tion of bushelmen were content to make a few stand- 
ard alterations and let it go at that. 

But today, with ready-made clothing attaining the 
standard that it has, with careful attention to details, 
a perfect fit can be given every customer. 

This perfection in fitting will eliminate most of 
the complaints which the retailer is compelled to 
meet today. Then. too. it will be the means of 
selling thousands of dollars of extra merchandise in 
your store. 

Hidden away from tin- regular routine of the store. 



the alteration department is most important and 
here are made many friends or enemies for you daily. 

The writer is here reminded of an experience of 
his own. After purchasing a suit recently, several 
alterations were necessary. The garment was prom- 
ised on a certain day and on this day I presented the 
ticket to the clerk, but was told that it was not fin- 
ished as yet. lint would have to be called for tin- 
next day. 

"But can't we send it to your office?" Yes, they 
could and did. That evening 1 attempted to wear 
the suit. Only half the needed alterations had been 
made. This slackness on their part, of course, ne- 
cessitated another trip to the store. This time I 
was more successful. But think what a different 
impression would have been made on me if the time 
appointed for the garment to be finished had found 
it completed and ready for me and if on the first 
attempt to wear it, it had fitted nicely. 

This instance was not an unusual one with that 
store. I am sure it is a daily occurrence. I'll leave 
it to your good judgment if it is conducive to future 
trade. 

The different figures illustrated in this article 
clearly show the attitudes for which provision must 
be made. 
Four 



Wide Back— Small Chest 




Diagram 9 shows the change necessary for a coat 
needing more blade, or in other words, greater 
length from the center of the back to the front of 
the scye (arm-hole). 

This customer has a wider back and a smaller 
chest. 

If the under-sleeve is short after making the 
change, work in the back of the scye a little more 
and press the fullness well away to the blades, as 
shown by the arrow points. 



To Shorten Back 




Diagram 10 illustrates how to shorten the back of 
a coat. (Oh page three figure 2 was illustrated, show- 
ing the erect attitude. ) The accompanying sketch 10A 
shows very clearly the need for alteration. 

In altering such a garment, carefully drop the 



back three-quarters to an inch, as shown by the 
dotted lines and arrow points. Shorten the amount 
dropped at the bottom. Raise the back notch, as 
pointed out by the hand in the illustration. Then 
distribute the extra fullness at the top of the sleeve, 
caused by raising the back notch. Reduce the blade 
of the back, as illustrated by the dotted lines, since 
an erect figure needs a smaller back. 



To Lengthen Back 

{Refer to figure on Page Three, showing stooping figure) 




Raise up the back three-fourths 
to an inch, and drop the back 
notch, as pointed out by the hand. 
Shorten the forepart at the bot- 
tom of side, the amount the back 
is raised or face bottom of back 
with cloth. Redistribute the extra 
fullness of the under-sleeve at the 





Lfi»£ 6*cA 



bottom of the armhole. It may 
also lie necessary, in order to give 
more blade, to make in addition to 
the above changes, the alterations 
as shown in diagram 9. Sketch 11 
A accompanying this diagram 11 
illustrates the garment before al- 
teration. 



Pagi Fivi 



Sloping Shoulders 

(See figure 6 on Page Four) 



Square or High Shoulders 

{See figure on Page Four) 




This may be overcome in some in- 
stances by padding the shoulders. 

The proper alteration is shown by 
the dotted lines. Slope the shoulders 
and lower the scye, and drop the back 
and front notches. 

This change will enable the sleeves 
to give in easily. If, on the other hand, 
the shoulders are sloped without sink- 
ing the scye, the sleeves will be far 
from being satisfactory. 

Sketch 13 A illustrates the incorrect 
fit. 



Extreme Hiorh Shoulders 







In addition to changes made on diagram 12, lower 
the top of the back, as outlined by the dotted lines, 
making the back of the neck a little wider. Cut 
down shoulder seam of back, as shown. Hook in 
shoulder seam of forepart, as illustrated. Straighten 
the shoulder. (See arrow points, and let out out- 
lay in the gorge of forepart.) 

Then take off the forepart, as per dotted lines. 



This figure, in addition to causing tightness 
in the shoulders, usually develops a horizontal 
crease at the back of the neck. If the fault is 
merely tightness in the shoulder, the changes 
shown in diagram 12 will usually be sufficient. 

In extreme cases, and 
when the crease is evident 
at the top of the back, as 
shown in the smaller sketch, 
the changes illustrated in diagram 
13 must be made, in addition to the following: Take 
out all the padding in the shoulders. Put cut in 
the canvas two and one-half to three inches down 
from shoulder end. Invert v's in lining to corre- 
spond to cuts in canvas. If padding is around the 
arm's scye remove it from the shoulder. When all 
is open and free, stretch well with the iron, where 
marked on diagram 12. 



One Shoulder Low 

(See figure mi Page Four) 

It is usually the right shoulder which 
is low. Make the changes as illustrated 
by the dotted lines at the top of the 
center seam, top of hack, and shoulders. 



I'mjr SlX 



One Shoulder Low 

(Continued from Page Six) 

A frequent occur- 
rence in a garment 
having a low shoulder 
defect is that it hits 
on the hip at the same 
side as the 1< >\v shi wil- 
der. 

In this case drop 
the hack and sink the 
scye. Shorten the hack 
at the bottom the 
amount dropped. Also 
slope the shoulders at 
the end of the fore- 
part. J fitting on the 
hip on the same side 
as the low shoulder usually arises from the other 
shoulder requiring a high shoulder — hence the drag. 
See sketch showing the defect. 



Showing Left Shoulder High and Right 
Shoulder Low 




Coat Requiring a Longer Back on One 
Side and Low Shoulder on the Other 

Make the one shoulder low by the alteration as 
shown on the right back. Raise back up on left side 
and center seams as shown by arrow points. Drop 
inch on left side and take off top of back seam as per 
dotted lines. Lengthen left side of back at bottom. 




JZ>A/ 



7 



The acci impanying 

sketch was drawn to 
show the left shoulder 
high and right shoulder 
low. 

The coat would thus 
shi iw a drag from the 
left shoulder to the 
right hip and will have 
too much spring on the 
right side in addition to 
the usual fullness, 
causedbythelow 
shoulder at the back of 
the arm. 

Another way of al- 
tering this defect is 
shown in diagram 17. 




Coat Needing More Spring 



Rip side seams to 
within four inches 
from top and put back 
on, short all the way 
down. Shorten back 
at bottom of side seam 
along forepart. 

In more e x t r e m e 
cases drop the back 
(as in diagram 10, 
page five) in addition 
to above changes. 




Page Seven 



Fullness in Forepart at Bottom of Scye Circular Creases in Front of Scye 




Too much suppres- 
sion in the under arm 
cut. 

The remedy is ob- 
tained by reducing at 
the top of cut. (See 
diagram 23.) Forward 
the scye. 



Too Much Breast 



Take in at the under arm 
and. as per dotted line, for- 
ward the scye, or rip out the 
drawing threads or tape in 
front of scye. Open up vest 
in canvas and press breast 




Circular Creases Below Front of Scye 




Deepen and a d v a n c e the 
scye. If facings are tight or 
twisted readjust them. 




To remedy this defect ad- 
ance the scye as shown in dia- 
gram 22, or if facings are tight 
et them out. 



Coat Tight at lop Button 



Rip the lining and canvas in front 
"i scye and open the lining at the fac- 
ing. Steam up fronts well, stretch 
and press breast forward to front. Re- 
adjust canvas and linings. Take as 
small a seam as possible. 

For perpendicular fold between 
blades, take off center seam as per 
dotted lines. 




Alterations at Back x\rm 

This is caused by a sleeve which is imperfectly put 
in at the back scye. Rip the armhole around the back 
scye and draw in well with front, pressing carefully 
to the blade. ( See diagram 9. on page five. ) 

If sleeve runs up arm when raising to front close 
the scye at the under 



arm cut as per dotted 
lines. Raise the front 
notch one - half and 
drop back notch one- 
half, repitching the 
sleeves as shown in 
diagram 24. 




Page Eight 




To Raise or Lower Collars 

To raise collar raise on out- 
lay back of neck and gorge. 
If the collar gets too long, 
shorten it. 

To lower the collar lower 
collar at back of neck or gorge 
and reduce the stand of the 
collar. 

If the collar is lowered at 
the neck without taking oft' 
stand, the collar will some- 
times get too short unless the 
neck point is hooked in one-quarter of an inch. 

Collars may be made lower or higher without ripping 
the seams by a judicial use of the iron as suggested 

To lower 'the collar, stretch well on fall edge of the 
collar and shrink on crease edge, and to raise the col- 
lar lay out the collar straight on the crease edge and 
stretch well. 



To Lengthen Collar 



Collar Riding Up 



Rip off the collar : pass the 
collar back at the notch and 
make a wider notch. Dis- 
tribute the collar fullness 
where short. 




Collar Standing Away at Back of Neck 



Take in the center seam of the 
back at the top and raise as per 




dotted lines. Shorten collar 
amount necessary. 



tru 




Take all of the 
padding out of the 
shoulders and stretch 
up well. Hook in 
neck and shorten top 
of back as per dotted 
lines. Stretch bottom 
edge of collar well. 
To eliminate "the fall edge on collar riding up. 
-no-then the edge by stretching well. 

Vest Too Large in Front From Waist 
Down 



Pass the b a c k 
down. Lengthen the 
scye of the forepart 
andshorten vest 
hack at bottom. Then 
take away surplus at 
the side seams at the 
waist if necessarv. 



Vest Too Loose in Front of Scye 





l'ass up the back 
as per dotted lines 
and shorten forepart 
at the side. 



I'iiiji Sim 



Vest Tight at Bottom Buttons and 
Loose at Waist in Back 




Forward Attitude 

(S« Small Sketch) 



Pass the back up 
as per dotted lines. 
This will also alter a 
vest that sticks out 
and acts loose at the 
vest opening when 
the wearer is seated. 



Vest Standing Away 



at Side of Neck 



The vest back is 
too short at the neck 
point. Let out the 
neck point as per 
dotted lines by put- 
ting- on a block at the 
top of the back, as 
shown by dotted 
lines. 





Take off the front of waist and fly and straighten 
the scat as shown by dotted lines. 

Trousers Cutting in Seat 



This is caused by 

Vest Standing Away From Back of Neck hollowing the under- 
side too much at the 
crotch, thus giving 
too much space be- 
tween A and B. 

The remedy is 
caused by reducing 
the crotch as out- 
lined by dotted lines. 




Pass up the back. 
Shorten the forepart 
at sides and take in 
the back seam at the Take three-quarters of an inch off the underside and 




top ; shorten the 
neckstrap as shown 
by dotted lines. 



one-quarter inch off topside. This alteration will neces- 
sitate shortening the legs one-half inch. 

NOTE. — This change may not appear logical to many but 
it is the best remedy. The usual thing done is to let out the 
crotch instead of taking in, with the result that the trousers 
are worse than before. 

The only time a crotch should be let out is when the 
trousers are too tight in the thigh. 



Page Ten 



To Reduce the Waist of Trousers 



If necessary to 
reduce the waist 
above one and one- 
half inches, half the 
aim unit should be 
reduce d in the 
front, and half in 
the back, as shown 
by dotted lines. 

A waist should 
never be reduced 
one and one-half at back or bursted legs will 
and the side pockets and hip pockets will be 
too much to the back. 




above 



ensue 
forced 




derside as per dotted lines. The 
underside should be joined three- 
fourths to an inch shorter, accord- 
ing to the degree of twist. 

Crease Swinging to 
Outside of Leg 

See Sirlc/i Two 
Rip leg seam from the bottom to 
crotch and resew, keeping the un- 
derside on short, three-fourths to 
one inch, according to the degree 
of twist, and shorten the under- 
side at the bottom the amount 
passed down. 



Twisted Legs 



This defect often causes much annoyance to a cus- 
tomer and to the alteration man, yet it is one of the 
simplest of changes if the proper course is pursued. 



Crease Swinging to Inside of Leg 

See Dia. 35 and Sketch One 



First ascertain if 
it is caused 1>v the 
improper joining 
of parts w h i c h 
m ust meet at 
IK itches. 

The remedy is as 
follows : 

Rip the side 
seam up to the hip 
notch and resew, 
keeping under side 
on short all the way 
down to the bot- 
tom. Take oft" un- 




Conclusion 

In conclusion let us say that we 
have endeavored to suggest altera- 
tions which will cover the most 
common defects confronted in the 
every day sale of clothing at retail. 

We have tried to make every 
point as plain as possible ; in this 
way making lengthy descriptions 
not necessary, having aimed at 
conciseness. sketch Two 

The remedies of the defects suggested herein are 
the result of many years experience and if the prin- 
ciples laid down are followed they will simplify many 
problems that would otherwise be very troublesome. 
The alteration will "stay put," eliminating many 
comebacks, will create a higher efficiency and reduce 
the cost considerably. 




I'niji Elf 



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